Novel Times, Novel Measures

The virtual home of Lawrence S. Grodeska

Lo siento, mi espanol es muy malo.

Whew, ¡estoy cansado! That means that I am tired. After two days of spanish school I am coming to realize that learning this language may be one of the most difficult things I ever attempt. More on that later.

I finally decided on Los Amigos del Sol, a smaller school east of the zocolo. Registration and a placement exam preceded the commencement of my first class, verbs, from 9:00 to 10:30. Now, from my understanding, there are a number of different theories about teaching spanish. I´m sure every branch of education has labored to find the most effective means of transmitting information to students. At first I was slightly wary of the¨”immersion” method and you can probably guess why. Learning from teachers who only speak spanish in class sounds daunting and that was exactly my experience. By the end of the first hour my head was already swimming and I was yawning, on the border of a headache. Aiy. Not only was it difficult to understand the teacher, I was at a loss for vocabulary and grammatical understanding on my own end. Add the grammatical terms in spanish on top of that and by the end of class I was cooked.

My next two classes were more of the same. Grammar began deceptively easy enough with some flash cards and common vocabulary words. When I was unable to understand one of the exceptions to a particular grammatical rule and the teacher seemed unable to explain I sank even lower. Finally the hour of conversational class hammered home the realization that I could barely speak in the present tense, let alone employ some of the more subtle tenses of past and present that I had taken for granted. Aiy.

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Filed under: Language, Mexico

Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan (tay-o-tee-wah-KAHN) presents a puzzle to archaeologists. They are sure of neither exactly what people built and occupied the site nor why they left. When awe-struck Aztecs discovered this tremendous site in the 14th century, they named it Teotihuacan, “place where men become gods”, and used it for their own rituals and architectural inspiration. At its height experts estimate that 125,000 priests, artisans and foreign dignitaries were housed within the vast complex of residences, temples and patios. Of great interest is the exact alignment of the site’s X-Y grid to true north, suggesting the Teotihuanacos possessed advanced mathematics and atronomical knowledge.

Enough of my history lesson. I will let the photos do the rest of the talking.

lsg temple of the dead

temple of the sun

way of the dead

temple of the moon

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Filed under: Mexico

In the belly of the beast

Mexcio city is intense! Here it is day 3 and amidst the dizzying history and teeming humanity I have just found the time to record my thoughts. The sheer amount of activity from both settling into my journey and taking in this huge city (over 20 million!) has kept me quite busy.

I am staying at a hostel in one of the main tourist areas of the city, the Centro Historico. The gorgeous setting is exemplified by this colonial-era cathedral which sits on the zocolo (town center) across from the appropriately named Hostel Catedral:

el catedral metropoliano

Coming from a country that can only lay claim to 400 or so years of history, learning about the many eras and cultures that el D.F. is built upon boggles my mind. And when I say “built upon”, I mean that literally as well as figuratively. The Aztecs orginally founded this city in the 14th century when a prophecy was fulfilled that involved an eagle eating a snake upon a cactus on an island in the middle of a large lake. That seems like quite a long shot, I know, but, as the story goes, the wandering Aztecs found just that here and proceeded to build their capital of Tenochtitlan. (Incidentally, the images of that prophecy comprise part of the modern Mexican flag.) When the Spaniards invaded in the middle of the 16th century, the temples of Tenochtitlan were razed and the stones used for cathedrals and palaces. Over time the fabulous city of Tenochtitlan was forgotten, only to be discovered by accident in 1978. Since then, a vast archaelogical restoration has uncovered some remarkable ruins:

templo mayor

All in all I have found Mexico City to be cleaner and safer than I expected. I have done a fair amount of walking around the city during the day but I have not yet begun to scratch the surface of the city´s rough reputation. Parks, museums, murals, markets, and more could keep one occupied for days. There are certainly rough spots, and plenty of garbage litters the street at times, but I haven’t seen – or felt – anything more foul than some of the darker corners of Queens or the Bronx. In fact, when riding the Metro here (which someone informed me was one of the three busiest in the world) I was reminded of NYC´s own MTA. Nonetheless, I am ready to move on.

mexico city at night

Tomorrow morning I leave for Oaxaca where I will enroll in Spanish language school for two weeks. While I have met plenty of internationals with whom to converse in English, communication with Mexicans has been difficult for me. I am definitely excited to throw myself headlong into the challenge of another language. And a challenge it will be. As of right now I cannot discern but a few words from the tongue of a native speaker, let alone enough continuity to understand a concept. Aiy! Hopefully Oaxaca will bring a little less distraction and much needed help with the language barrier.

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Filed under: Mexico

Itinerary

What follows is an ill-fated attempt to predict the future. While I have a good idea of what and where, when and how are somewhat less clear. Who is a complete unknown.

For my own sake, as well as safety, I will try to keep this itinerary up to date as events transpire and plans change. Who knows, maybe someone else will find it interesting.

June

01 Mexico City, Mexico @ Hostel Catedral
02 Mexico City (Teotihuacan)
03 Mexico City
04 Mexico City –> Oaxaca @ Magic Hostel
05 Oaxaca
06 Oaxaca
07-11 Oaxaca (Amigos del Sol language school)
12 Oaxaca
13 Oaxaca –> Puerto Escondido
14 – 17 Puerto Escondido –> Zipolite –> Mazunte –> Puerto Angel
18 Puerto Angel –> Oaxaca
19-20 Oaxaca
21 Summer Solstice Oaxaca (Monte Alban)
22 Oaxaca –> Chiapas
23-24 Chiapas
25 Chiapas –> Xela, Guatemala
26-27 Xela
28-30 Xela (language school)

July

01-16 Xela (language school)
16-24 Antigua, Lago de Atitlan, etc.
25-29 Honduras Copan, Roatan, Utila
30-31 Livingston, Guatemala

August

01-20 volunteer with Rights Action
21 Flight home (JFK)

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Filed under: Guatemala, Latin America, Mexico

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